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Glauco Vicario runs the magical Valle Canal Novo nature reserve, which you can walk straight into from the town centre.

He says: "Marano has fortunately not been ruined by floods of tourists in summer, and more and more people are waking up to sustainable tourism and coming here all year round.

But from up here it's also clear that Venice is not much more than a dot in a lagoon that stretches over 200 square miles.The road from the airport is soon running along the northern edge of the Venice lagoon.At the village of Caposile, 20km to the east, the holidaymakers are all following signs to Jesolo, but we turn off right towards the vast the otherwordly sandflats that stretch as far as the eye can Davis's last travelogue, An Idiot Abroad with Karl Pilkington, this time he and his family - wife Sam and kids Annabelle and Harrison - are driving around Britain in a camper van in search of japes.An hour from Venice lies a land of canals and deltas, dotted with fishing villages and trattorias, offering our writer an authentic taste of the lagoon.

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We could be a million miles from the crowds that teem around San Marco every day, rather than an hour's boat ride away.

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